Chef Leslie Bilderback's field of expertise is pastry, and she has been an instructor at the California School of Culinary Arts since 1995, where she currently serves as lead instructor, creating and reviewing curriculum while overseeing operations and faculty development.
Chef Bilderback created the CSCA Baking and Pastry Program and recently became a Certified Master Baker.

A graduate of the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco, Chef Bilderback completed her apprenticeship under reknown pastry chefs Robert Jorin and Bo Friberg, and she played a major role in several of California's renowned and innovative restaurants prior to accepting her position with CSCA.

She is a member of the American Culinary Federation, the International Association of Culinary Professionals, and the Retailer's Bakery Association.
  Chef Leslie Bilderback & Her Career   |   The Actual Work   |   Career / Job Info. & Advice   |   Education Info. & Advice   |   Industry Trends   |   Closing Remarks
 

CHEF LESLIE BILDERBACK & HER CAREER

Tell us how your career as a chef unfolded.

LB: I always worked in food service. In high school and throughout college. When I became disenchanted with my chosen career of Art History, I decided to do what I had been doing all along, but do it right. So… I entered the California Culinary Academy.

Your specialty is pastry. Why did you choose that path? As an educator and a professional, how much of your time is devoted solely to the pastry arts?

The path chose me. At the CCA, I was chosen for an in-house externship in the pastry department. It was nothing I had really planned on, but the opportunity presented itself. I assisted Chef's Bo Friberg and Robert Jorin in the Baking classes. After graduation, I applied for the position of Pastry Chef at the long-gone Shattuck Hotel restaurant Sedona. The pastry chef was leaving to open Wolfgang Puck's Postrio in SF. I got the job, but was in WAY over my head. But I hung in and after two years I think I was finally a pastry chef…

The pastry arts takes a small percentage of my time now. I teach Baking and Pastries a few times a year, but my focus now is really on overall Culinary Arts education. I do still compete, most recently making the finals for the 2002 Coup de Monde Boulangerie (world cup of baking). Last year I received my certification as a Master Baker through the RBA, and now sit on the RBA's Certification Board. They let me play with desserts in our school restaurant from time to time too!

Chef Robert Jorin, my instructor at CCA, was influential, and showed me that baking could be fun and cool. Janet Rikala was my Chef at Postrio, and she showed me the importance of being nice. I've never met anyone nicer. My boss, founder of CSCA, Chris Becker, has showed a lot of faith and encouragement in me as a chef and manager. I continue to learn, from him, as well as all the faculty, students and staff.

What do you enjoy most about being a chef?

Food, duh! No, really, I love being surrounded by creative, artistic, passionate people.

What was your greatest success and biggest setback?

My current position, and my current position. I am honored to lead this faculty, and look after this program. It is a huge responsibility and a constant challenge. But it is by far the biggest accomplishment of my career. It is also the hardest thing I have ever done. But, it has taken me out of the kitchen on a regular basis, which means keeping up with my skills is harder than ever.

You created the Baking and Pastry Program at the California School of Culinary Arts. How challenging was this? How do you stay on the cutting edge of culinary education?

I based the program on the education my colleagues and I received, and didn't receive, at the big schools. What we did get was a strong basis for the classics. What we didn't get was and understanding of the relevance of that classic basis, individual attention, room to learn creativity, and a feeling that baking was accessible. We try very hard to show our students that baking is cooking. The principles at work in bread are the same as those at work in a roast chicken. If they understand this, they are less intimidated by baking, and become better at it. Many Pastry Chefs separate themselves from other chefs. This elitism is no longer acceptable in the industry. We don't tolerate it here.

Is there more still that you want to accomplish in your career?

What I want to do is put this school at the forefront of culinary education. I think we are well on our way. The education we give, and they way we give it is truly unique. I believe in my heart that we are really good at this! I won't be satisfied though, until everyone who loves food knows our name.

THE ACTUAL WORK

What exactly do chefs do?

Chef's feed people. They feed the stomachs, the senses, the souls, the hearts, and the imaginations of mankind. Cooks just feed the stomach.

What are the tools of the trade you use most?

I use my senses. They are a Chef's most important tools. You must be able to use your hands skillfully, and your pallet thoughtfully. You must see clearly, both actually and figuratively. You must listen to those around you, and really hear them.

What are your favorite kitchen gadgets? Why?

I'm not a big gadget person. I prefer doing things by hand. Cooking is still artful to me, and I enjoy doing thing the old fashioned way. Unless, that is, I'm baking for 500.

How demanding is working in the kitchen?

It is hard. It's hot, crowded, and stressful. You miss out on holidays with your friends and family, and you miss out on weekends. Why then, do we love it? I think it is because we are appreciated by the masses. Everyone loves food, and it is the most widely appreciated form of art.

How much of your work is done outside of the kitchen?

I spend a lot of my time in kitchens, but not actually cooking. I am at my desk fairly infrequently, maybe 2-3 hours a day. The rest of the time I am visiting classes, getting to know the students, and observing teachers.

What are some of the skills that help all chefs succeed?

The most important skill is communication. It is the one thing chef's must do really well. Anyone can cook, but it takes a special talent to interact constructively with people, manage crises, and motivate those around you. Remember that most people loose their jobs because they don't communicate properly, not because they can't cook.

How important are certifications in the profession, such as Executive Chef or Master Chef? Are there more specific certifications for pastry chefs?

If you want to cook in a restaurant, a certification will get you in the door. Once inside, however, it's up to you to perform. In education, certifications are extremely important. They prove that you are keeping up with your profession, and provide a goal towards which to work. Everyone needs a challenge, even seasoned educators.

There are specific Pastry certifications available through ACF, including Executive Pastry Chef, and Master Pastry Chef. The RBA provides certifications specific to baking, including Certified Journeyman Baker, Certified Cake Decorator, Certified Bread Baker, and Certified Master Baker. I received my CMB last January, and currently serve on RBA's Certification Board.

Tell us about where you work. What do you like most, least?

The facilities at CSCA are incredible, and are constantly growing. We are currently halfway through construction at our third campus. It's gorgeous! Nine labs, a retail store, restaurant, café, learning resource center and consumer education kitchen are just some of the highlights. I really enjoy working in Pasadena and South Pasadena. Being a San Francisco girl, I was bred to despise Southern California. But I came here anyway, and found that this area is really quaint. The climate is mild, and the architecture is beautiful. It is close enough to LA to get all the perks, and far enough removed to avoid the weirdness.

What are some common myths about chefs? Pastry chefs?

That we are cranky old men. At this school we come in all shapes and sizes, and are seldom cranky. Pastry Chefs get a bad rap because, as I mentioned earlier, they often separate themselves. We're working on that here. Personally, I think it's sugar envy.

CAREER / JOB INFORMATION & ADVICE

What are the best ways to find a job as a chef?

Just do it! Put yourself out there and take a chance. You need to meet people, make contacts, and do a lot of cooking. And I believe that experience can be outweighed by a good attitude.

What kind of jobs can graduating culinary students expect to get?

This depends on the student's skill level, and ambition. I've seen students get great jobs, and I've seen them struggle to find something they like. It depends on how they utilize their training. It's safe to say that those students that excelled in class will excel on the job.

How much are chefs generally paid directly out of culinary school? How about those at the top of the profession?

Again, this greatly depends on the individual, and the local job market. The industry is far from standardized. This is something I hope to see change during my lifetime.

Other than creating great food, what are the most important qualities that make a successful chef?

I've already mentioned communication, which is key. The other quality that I find essential is humor. It's a really stressful profession, and you've got to realize that it's just food, or you'll end up as one of those cranky old chefs.

How important is it to create & maintain relationships within the culinary profession? If it is important, how do you do it?

Never burn a bridge. You never know who your boss may end up being. It is equally important to be able to accept input from everyone. Everyone has something to teach you. If you feel you've learned it all, you're kidding yourself.

How can graduating culinary arts students gain an advantage in their job search?

Keep yourself open. Don't limit your choices based on restaurant style, or salary. There are great experiences everywhere that will enhance your skills and knowledge. They may not necessarily land you on the TV Food Network though. Decide what you really want out of the career, and keep that goal in focus.

How is the job market right now for culinary professionals? How do you think it will be in the next five years? 10 years?

I looks great! Especially in LA. We have more jobs than students! As long as people are busy, I think this trend will continue. It's sad, in a way. I know people that never cook at home. They eat out every night. I view it as a disintegration of the American family. It is, however, great for business!

EDUCATION INFORMATION & ADVICE

Tell us about your culinary education. What was your degree, where did you get it? Any other degrees, certifications, etc.?

I was an honor graduate from the California Culinary Academy in SF. I am also a Certified Master Baker.

What did you like and dislike about your culinary education? Would you change anything about it, if you could?

I had a very thorough education in the classics. But most of my instructors could have cared less about me.

Was your culinary education worth it for you? Why?

Totally worth it. Without it I would never have gotten my first Pastry Chef job, and would never be were I am now. That base of knowledge is vital to really understanding food, and the culinary arts.

For those who have the talent already, should they go to culinary school and why?

Definitely. Talent is such a minor percentage of what one needs to be a success. You must understand the history and origin of cooking, chefs, ingredients, cuisine and culture. You need chemistry, the how's and why's of cooking. You need management training, communication and understanding of nutrition. Most importantly, you cannot stand alone and be a success. You need input from others in your field to be truly well-rounded. Culinary education offers all this, in an atmosphere of support and camaraderie. Working alone does not.

What advice can you give to prospective students thinking about an education and career in the culinary arts?

Be sure you're ready for the commitment. If you aim to succeed, it will take a lot more than simply enrolling. You need to take care of yourself. Stop smoking, stop drinking, don't do drugs. Get plenty of sleep. Get plenty of exercise. Study hard every night. Tell your family you are doing something really important for yourself, and make them understand.

What factors should students consider when choosing a culinary school? Are these any different for aspiring pastry chefs?

The factors are the same. Choose a program that will deliver. Read the catalogs carefully, and ask a lot of questions. It is a huge commitment. Find a school that cares about you. You should be more than a face in a crowd.

What should culinary arts students try to get out of their education?

Everything that is offered and more. Ask a lot of questions. Bug your teachers for everything they know. Join clubs, compete, form study groups and dining groups. Write for your school paper; get involved with student council. If you simply show up every day you will probably pass. But if you involve yourself, you'll be a success.

Based on what you hear in the industry, what do you think are the 5 most respected and prestigious culinary schools in the world that really make a difference to students who graduate from these schools?

I think we are at the top. But I am biased. The Grande Diplome from Le Cordon Bleu carries a lot of weight. CIA, CCA both are well known, but go in and out of popularity. Graduate quality varies greatly from all schools, and I know of some great community colleges that turn out better chefs than the big schools. Like I said, an education is what you make of it.

What are the most respected and prestigious pastry schools?

The same big schools carry as much clout in their pastry departments as they do in general culinary education. We are hoping to offer a Baking Diploma Program in the coming years. I know there are those that are only interested in baking and Pastry. I still feel, however, that regardless of where you want to specialize, you should attend a complete culinary program. You must have skill in all areas, be well rounded, and have an understanding of all cuisine if you want to truly succeed.

Is there a major difference in the industry between graduating from a prestigious culinary school and graduating from a college with a culinary program?

Big names can get you heard, but your skill and knowledge get you the job.

INDUSTRY TRENDS

What are some trends that you see in the field of culinary arts that might help prospective students?

There has definitely been a boom in the area of international cuisine. Flavors from all over the world are showing up in not so traditional ways. We are also seeing a lot of "low" food. In less superfluous garnish, and more attention to flavor and texture. Food can't just look good anymore. Everything on a plate should serve a purpose.

How has advancing technology affected the culinary profession? What role does the Internet play in the every day life of a chef?

Computers are the obvious answer. They play a huge role in everything from nutritional analysis to product ordering and inventory. The Internet is used widely in our resource center, where students do a lot of research. In addition, there are some great advances in equipment technology, assisting large and small food services in production.

All off our recipes, curriculum, rosters, purchasing and inventory is done on computer. This is standard industry practice nowadays. It is enabling chefs to spend less time in the office, more time in the kitchen.

CLOSING REMARKS

Is there anything else you can tell us about yourself, your career, or the profession that would be interesting or helpful to others aspiring to enter and succeed as a chef?

I'd like to point out the importance of giving. This is an industry of excess. We eat and drink richly, even in the kitchen. There are too many people, though, that have no kitchen. Volunteer your time and skill to better not only our industry, but your community.

I'd also like to tell those thinking about this career that it IS attainable. No matter what circumstances you feel might be holding you back, you can make this happen for yourself. It's not easy. But I have seen hundreds of students overcome tremendous obstacles to reach graduation day. We've graduated single parents, pregnant teens, cancer patients, grandmothers, veterans, and those with all sorts of other personal challenges. The one thing we all have in common is a love for food, and a desire to make a living doing something fun.

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